Nothing says I Love You like making your Best Furry Friend some homemade dog treats. Why worry about the toxic ingredients included in store bought treats when you can easily make your own treats right in your own kitchen? These treats are easy to make and use only 5 ingredients or less.
Adapting A Recipe
Quite often homemade dog treat recipes use wheat flour. If you have a Husky or Malamute you know to keep wheat, corn and soy our of your dog's diet.
Here is a list of flour substitutions that you can interchange 1:1 with wheat flour. These flours can be found in any health store or market.
Amaranth, Bean Flour, Millet Flour, Quinoa, and Spelt Flour
Three Ingredient Vegan, Grain Free Dog Treats / from Good Dogs & Co.
1 sweet potato, baked and cooled;
1/4 cup coconut oil;
2 cups quinoa flour.
1. Preheat your oven to 350º F.
2. Add your sweet potato and coconut oil, and mix until well combined. Don’t worry about getting it completely smooth.
3. Add your flour, about a half cup at a time, until your dough begins to stick together and release from the sides of your bowl.
4. On a floured surface, roll out your dough to 1/4 inch thick and cut out your treats. Quinoa flour is not as elastic as regular flour, so you may have to roll in batches if your dough breaks apart easily.
5. Bake your treats for 20-25 minutes, then turn the oven off (or as far down as you can make it go) and let them sit and dry out for another 45 minutes to an hour. Take out your treats and let them cool before putting them away.
Three ingredient dog treats: grain free, vegan, 20-25 minute cook time.
Easy Two-Ingredient Dog Treats / from Dog-Milk
2 cups 100% organic whole wheat flour* (or wheat germ, spelt, rolled oats — or a mixture of these);
2 (4oz) jars of pureed baby food** – beef, blueberry, sweet potato, chicken, etc.
Preheat oven to 350°.
Mix ingredients together to form a stiff dough. If necessary, add extra flour or water as needed.
On a lightly floured surface, roll dough out evenly until it’s about 1/4 inch thick. Use cookie cutters to cut into desired shape or a pizza cutter to make cubes.
Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper, place treats about 1/2 inch apart. Bake for 20 – 25 minutes.
Allow to cool completely before storing in a paper bag (storing in an air-tight container will make them soft, but they’re still edible).
Homemade Dog Biscuits / from Kitchen Confidante
Homemade Dog Biscuits
1 cup whole wheat flour;
1 cup rolled oats;
1/2 cup flaxseed;
1/2 to 1 cups beef broth;
1/4 cup natural peanut butter ( do not use PB that contains Xylitol!)
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
In a medium bowl, stir together the flour, oats and flaxseed.
Mix in 1/2 cup beef broth and peanut butter.
Mix well, adding additional beef broth if necessary to bring the mixture together to a thick dough.
Form into a ball and turn out on a lightly floured surface.
Roll to about 1/4 inch thickness and cut out to desired shape.
Bake for about 20 minutes or until golden brown, flipping halfway.
Cool completely, then keep in an airtight container for about one week.
YIELD: Makes about 1 dozen.
Cheesy Bone Treats / from Sugar The Golden Retriever
Cheesy Bone Treats
4 cups of flour;
2 cups of shredded cheddar cheese;
2 tbsp-1/4 cup of olive oil;
1 1/3 cups of water.
Combine flour and cheese.
Stir in oil, egg, and water.
Adjust liquid as necessary to make stiff dough.
Roll on floured cutting board to 3/8″ thick.
Cut with bone shaped cutter.
Placed on non-stick ungreased cookie sheet.
Bake for 2 1/2 – 3 hours in 250 degrees oven until thoroughly dry. Turn treats over to make sure that there is no moisture on the underside. Bake for a few more minutes if necessary.
Cool and then store in a paper bag in the fridge to help keep the treat dry.
Related Health Risks For Your Dog
By Margit Maxwell
I Am Not The People Police
No, I am not about to give you a lecture about the health risks associated with smoking for you. By now it is impossible for you not to already know of the health hazards associated with smoking. But perhaps you have not considered what effect your choice to smoke may have on your dog.
Second Hand Smoke
There are mountains of evidence showing us that second hand smoke is very toxic to other humans living in the same environment as a smoker but many people forget that your dog is also forced to breathe the same air as the humans in the household. Since your dog’s lungs function in exactly the same way that human lungs do, that also means that second hand smoke can also cause the same health problems in your dog as it does in humans.
Lungs Need Clean Air
It cannot be argued that exposing lung tissue, human and animal lungs, to continued second-hand smoke will affect the delicate lining of lung tissue over time. And when the lung tissue is scarred with lesions or fibroids, then the lungs can no longer do their job of air exchange. Getting lung cancer from second hand smoke is a very real possibility for dogs living in homes with smokers.
Symptoms Associated with Second Hand Smoke Inhalation
There are numerous lesser breathing related symptoms associated with exposure to second hand smoke that can plague a dog who lives with a smoker. Asthma, chronic bronchitis, and even allergies can often be traced back to dogs breathing in their owner’s second hand smoke. If more than one person in the house smokes, the level of toxicity contained in the poor quality of the air has even a greater impact on tender lung tissues of innocent by-standers.
If your dog exhibits the following symptoms and someone in your house smokes, then chances are very good that second hand smoke could be causing your dog to be sick.
Asthma and frequent asthma attacks,
Allergic Lung Disease,
Chronic Bronchitis with a hacking cough,
Difficulty breathing during or after exercise.
Another hazard for dogs living with smokers is the ingestion of cigarettes and used cigarette filters. Packs of cigarettes and ashtrays containing discarded butts are often left down where dogs can easily get a hold of them. Did you know that a used cigarette filter still contains approximately 25% of the nicotine that was originally contained in the cigarette?
The ingestion of tobacco and nicotine will cause digestive distress and cause symptoms such as diarrhea, vomiting, drooling, and shaking. Very high doses of nicotine (remember that what constitutes a “high dose” is directly related to the body mass of the dog) will cause constricted pupils, nervousness, anxiety, possible seizures and even death.
If you suspect that your dog has ingested any part of a cigarette or loose tobacco, immediately call the emergency Vet Clinic for instructions for treating the poisoning. Do not induce vomiting without checking with a Vet first.
What You Can Do To Help Keep Your Dog Healthy
If you insist on smoking, please choose to go outside while you are smoking a cigarette. This helps to keep the second hand smoke from being in the air that your dog breathes indoors.
Don’t smoke in the car while your dog is in this confined space with you. And no, rolling your down window while you smoke in the car is not enough to keep your dog’s lungs safe. A certain amount of second hand smoke will still remain in the car with you even with the car window open.
Make sure that cigarette butts are not left out in ashtrays where dogs can ingest them.
Make sure that you don’t throw your cigarette butts on the ground outdoors where your dog can pick them up and eat them.
Many people find themselves in a situation where their dog resource guards. It does not matter if a dog guards, a bone, a preferred sleeping spot, a doorway, or person. Dogs should never be allowed to "own" anything or anyone. Learn why this is a serious problem behaviour that must not be allowed to continue.
Jealous, Possessive, Resource Guarding Dogs; What's Happening Here?
By Margit Maxwell
I frequently get asked for help by owners of dogs because their dogs have turned their households into a war zone. These dogs lunge, snap, snarl at their owners when they don’t want to comply to a given cue They have become a menace in their community because they try to attack other dogs and people that approach them. They also have become very untrustworthy because they try to control the movements of family members (other family dogs included).
These dogs have become little furry little dictators “barking” out the orders to everyone. Over confident dominant dictator dogs like to determine where they sleep, who comes and goes from the house, and they have even claimed ownership of all toys, food, and humans. Does this sound familiar? Has your dog turned into a jealous, over-protective tyrant who fiercely guards his possessions .... including YOU?
Is this a problem? Yes, this is a very serious problem.
Understanding How Dogs View Resources And Ownership
Before we attempt to “fix” this problem it helps to understand the nature of the problem. In the natural social order of the dog world, it is perfectly reasonable and common for a dog with social ranking to get “preferred access” to resources that are viewed and understood to be scarce or valuable. While this behaviour fits our human definition of resource guarding, within the context of environment and societal rules of a canine pack, this behaviour is viewed neither as a problem nor an issue. It is only when this behaviour is removed from its original environment and placed into a foreign and incompatible environment (like human society with all of its rules) does this behaviour suddenly become a problem.
Make no mistake, a dog in human society that resource guards and manipulates humans to guard “his” property is a very volatile and dangerous dog because he will do what he deems necessary to protect his property. But we humans have to understand that from a dog’s point of view, by resource guarding, he is not doing anything wrong or unnatural. Unfortunately, trying to convince a dog to stop a natural behaviour can be a long and challenging process.
Stopping The Behaviour
We cannot fix a problem unless we understand it and how it was created. Albert Einstein wisely pointed out that a problem could not be fixed on the same level where it was first created. So that means that in order to fix the dog’s behaviour issues, owners must first recognize and define the problem, understand how this situation came to be, what part they played in its creation, and how they continue to reinforce the behaviour. Then owners make a commitment to their dog and to themselves to think, believe, act, and choose differently. If they do not, they only serve to continue nurturing the very behaviours that created this problem in the first place.
Sadly, many owners are in complete denial about how they could have possibly contributed to this problem. No one is really thrilled to hear that they created a mess (consciously or unconsciously) with their dog. While understanding why this is happened is important, it is equally important to focus on what you as an owner can do to fix this problem.
Defining These Issues
When it comes to these behavioural issues jealousy, resource of guarding, and over-protectiveness are not really interchangeable terms. The basis for their existence are related and rooted in commonality, but they are separate issues. There is a point where these separate issues do overlap and intersect with each other. At times this can make it difficult to know which behaviour issue you are actually dealing with.
The Jealous Dog
Can a dog be jealous? Yes it can. As it applies to dogs, jealousy can be defined as envy or coveting something or someone (“You have it and I want it” OR “You have it and I really don’t like that you have it.”). Dogs can be jealous of new people or other dogs entering into “their” territory, home, or family unit. They can be jealous and demand your undivided attention if they feel that they do not have it or no longer have it.
Jealous dogs do feel like they should be the main of focus of your attention because most likely at some point they were initially the center of all of your attention. If you lavished and indulged your dog with disproportionate amounts of constant attention and then you stopped for some reason, your dog now resents this change.
If you brought a new person or dog into the home that now also get your attention, then your dog may show jealousy. The basis for this behaviour is rooted in the dog’s belief system that goes along with this situation where he believes, or is lead to believe, that you are his property and no one else should have access to you.
The Over Protective Dog
Unless there is a truly real physical threat of danger, like a charging dog or an actual physical threat from a human, there is nothing in your environment that would require your dog to "protect" you. Generally, dogs that are believed to be over protective are actually displaying behaviours that are controlling, possessive, and jealous. What these dogs are actually doing is Resource Guarding you.
When these dogs try and keep other dogs or people away from you, this is not done from feelings of great love or affection for you as much as it is done from feelings of guarding something they consider to be a valuable or scarce resource. In a nutshell, these dogs are sending a message to all interlopers to stay away from you because you are their PROPERTY and they “own” you. Their behaviour is shaped by the thought, “ I have this resource and I am afraid that you will take it away from me” or “ This is mine and I will not allow you take this resource away from me.”.
The Resource Guarding Dog
As already mentioned, in nature, it is perfectly natural and normal for a confident and dominant dog to take and keep possession of items regarded as having high value without there needing to be a fight over it. The attention and affection of a human is considered by dogs to be a valuable resource. While natural Resource Guarding may be considered to be a naturally occurring situation within wild dog packs, it is not something should be encouraged or allowed within the dynamics of the human society or within the human family unit as it tends to result in dog bites and dog fights.
Sorry, This Is Not Love
Sadly, many people really have a hard time coming to terms with the idea that their behaviours and choices have helped create this problem in their dogs. Countless people have made up epic stories of love, loyalty, and heroism displayed by their dogs as an explanation for their resource guarding behaviours. There are dogs who have genuinely protected their owners during situations of true great danger but the guarding behaviours commonly seen in most homes has nothing to do with the need to protect and owner from danger. There is no danger. The only danger that exists is in the mind of the dog who does not want to lose a possession.
Worse yet, many people, while they admit that their dog’s “protective” behaviours causes them no end of problems, are still quick to reinforce the behaviours because they secretly are enamoured by or enjoy the idea of their dog protecting them out of a sense of great love or loyalty. Some people thrive on the feeling of the special attention they get from their dogs. Unfortunately, this kind of attention is not healthy or balanced and unless it is corrected and re-balanced, will end badly for you both you and your dog. These guarding and aggressive behaviours will not remain contained to isolated situations and will spread to other areas of your dog’s functioning. Your very protective dog will eventually end up trying to dictate all areas of your life and he will do it through growling, snapping, snarling, and biting at you.
The reality is that dogs can respect you, be loyal toward you, and even “love you” without needing to keep everyone and everything away from you. Resource Guarding, Jealousy, and Possessiveness have nothing to do with affection. This is nothing more than an expression of being in an unbalanced relationship with your dog where he does not recognize or respect you in the leadership role you and he there has been no relationship bond forged between the two of you. Instead of being respected as a leader, you have been relegated to a lower position and allocated to be one of your dog’s possessions.
Behavioural Signs That Your Dog May Be Possessive, Jealous, or Dominating With You
It is important to be able to interpret the signs of these behavioural issues. Many people misinterpret them and miss the signs and as a result they do not realize the seriousness of their dog’s behaviours.
Do you see your dog displaying these behaviours?
Situational Aggression against:
-Humans (children, partners or guests).
-other family dogs or pets.
- approaching dogs.
Generalized aggression or guarding of:
-food (resource guarding including empty bowls).
-fear (fear causes him to automatically resort to aggression).
-toys (resource guarding)
-Furniture and sleeping places (resource guarding)
-territorial aggression (guards yard, house, or crate against anyone entering HIS territory).
The dog also:
- is over protective, possessive, jealous or guards a particular human against other people or dogs.
- has no respect or regard for other family members.
-defies or rebels against cues issued by owners.
-does not observe personal space of humans by repeatedly jumping on them, climbing on them, stepping on them, pushing against them, or leaning hard on them in an effort to control them or their movements.
-uses their body, muzzle, or teeth on humans to move them, herd them, or control their movements.
- steals food off human’s plate, hands, or off counters surfaces.
-tries to control people and his immediate environment by excessive whining, growling, snarling, snapping or biting.
-uses demanding, pushy, or obnoxious behaviours to get his way.
-marks his territory outside and inside the house using urine or feces.
-domination of humans and dogs by mounting them.
It is true that all dogs can display one or two of these behaviours at one time or another especially while they are young and still learning. Also, recently adopted dogs may be totally lacking in training and may also initially display these behaviours. But if you continually see your dog displaying a number of these behaviours you may well be dealing with a jealous, over-protective, possessive, fear aggressive, guarding, over confident and dominating dog.
Crate Training Tips
by Margit Maxwell
Once you have chosen the correct crate for your dog you are ready to start preparing for the actual crate training process. Crate training should be done gradually so it gives your dog time to get used to the idea of the crate. If you just place the dog into the crate and shut the door, your dog will probably panic and associate the crate with terrible memories of being locked up for reasons that he cannot understand. It is much more difficult to retrain the dog using Desensitization and Counter conditioning than it is to train to the crate correctly the first time.
Making The Crating Experience Pleasant
One way to entice them into their crate is to begin placing their food dish in the crate and start feeding their meals to them inside the crate. You can start by placing the dish near the front of the crate so the dog can stand just outside the crate to eat his food at first. Everyday move the dish a little further back until eventually he has to fully enter the crate in order to reach to eat from their dish. Remember, the door of the crate stays open for now.
Handy tip: *Did you know that if the only place your dog gets anything to eat is in his crate, that this will eliminate many of the issues associated with begging for food, stealing food from plates, or counter surfing issues? If food only comes to them when they are in the crate then it removes the reason to look for food outside of the crate. *
While they are being desensitized to the idea of the crate, by adding comfy blankets and their favorite toys in the crate you can help your dog make pleasant associations with being crated. At first, do not close the door to the crate. Allow them to come and go as they please to give them time to get comfortable with the idea of the crate.
If your dog is resistant about spending time in his new crate, try draping the crate with a blanket or large towel to make it feel more den-like and cozy. Watch your dog to help identify what his likes and dislikes are. The important thing to understand about crate training is that you are teaching your dog to associate being in his crate with pleasant things. Without these pleasant associations the dog will not want to be a very willing participant in this practice.
Begin Adding The Cue CRATE
As the dog gets used to being in the crate you can start adding the verbal cue CRATE as your dog is entering the crate. When you are placing his food dish into his crate or placing a treat into his crate, issue the cue, CRATE.
In my house food is only given when all dogs are lying calmly in their crates. When I say CRATE, you have never seen dogs move so fast to get into their crates. They are practically tripping over each other to get to their respective crates. Even Skylar ,who is only 12 weeks old, goes to his crate when he sees the other dogs in their crates. I am not sure if he fully understands why he should be in his crate, so for right now, he is just copying what the big dogs are doing. But through consistency and repetition, Skylar is learning a new concept.
Handy Tip: * In multi dog households, feeding dogs in their crates removes many problems and issues associated with resource guarding, competition for food, and reduces eating and food related anxiety. *
Closing The Crate Door
Once you notice that your dog has begun to voluntarily spend time in his crate, you can begin closing the door. At first, close the door but do not fasten it shut. A good time to begin doing this is when the dog is eating in his crate, sleeping in his crate, or is other wise occupied with another pleasant activity. Give him as much time as he needs to become comfortable with seeing the crate door closed. Dogs that are being re-trained to a crate will need a lot more time to get comfortable with associating the crate with pleasurable thoughts. This is a process so give your dog as much time as he needs to feel comfortable with this process.
The Process Of Learning To Be Crated
Once your dog has had a chance to become desensitized to seeing the crate door closed, it is time to work on the process of making him comfortable with you fastening the crate door closed. This is a process so move through the steps slowly. If you found that you have moved too fast and your dog is anxious do not introduce anymore new steps to this process until your dog becomes comfortable with it.
The Steps For Crating Your Dog
- Begin with tossing a treat into the crate for your dog. Issue the cue CRATE. When your dog goes into the crate, close the crate door. Do not leave your dog yet. Feed some more treats through the bars of the crate and praise your dog. Do this exercise for a few minutes and then open the crate door BUT do not allow your dog to come charging out through the open crate door. Get your dog into the habit of waiting for the release cue OKAY, before exiting the crate. This helps to anchor the understanding that crating is done on your terms, not his. Crating ends when you release him from the crate and not before.
- Repeat this step often until your dog is very comfortable with being in the crate and knowing what to expect including understanding that the crate door will eventually open for him.
- Each step of this process builds on the previous step. For the next step, after your dog is in the crate and has been given treats through the bars, take a few large steps away from the crate. Wait for a minute and then return to the crate and give the dog a treat. Now release the dog from the crate. Practice this step until the dog is very comfortable with seeing you back away the crate.
- Now, practice this step this time adding duration to the process. Increase the time that you are standing away from the crate. Each time come back to release the dog from the stay in the crate. Work your way up to several minutes. Eventually work your way up to sitting in a chair for while while your dog is in the crate.
- Now add distance to your dog’s stay in the crate. Keep slowly moving back further from the crate each time returning to release your dog from the crate.
- Now add disappearing around the corner out of sight for a few moments. Return to release the dog from the crate.
- Now add duration to how long you are out of sight of the dog. Return to release the dog from the crate
- Eventually you will work your way up to walking out the door for a few moments ( letting your dog hear you open and close the front door, jingle keys, getting your coat etc. The purpose of this step is to desensitize your dog to the crate door being closed, to your absence, and to hearing the sounds of you leaving the house. Work on this step by adding duration of how long you are outside and how long the dog is in his crate with the door closed.
There is no set formula for how long it takes for a dog to become comfortable with this process. Some dogs adapt easily, some dogs take longer. Dogs that are being re-trained to the crate will take much longer to become comfortable with the process. Be consistent and practice the process frequently.
The Issue of Whining Or Barking While Being Crated
At some point during this crate training process you will most likely encounter some whining and barking done in protest over the confinement. How you handle the situation will make a huge impact on how future crating attempts will go. Remember to keep the length of the crate stay appropriate to the dog’s training. Simply shutting the dog into the crate and leaving him to howl for hours on end is not acceptable, nor advisable.
You have three ways that you can handle this issue of a dog protest :
1. You can stay in the room and ignore the barking and whining until it is time for the dog to be released from the crate. Make sure to release the dog ONLY during a lull in their vocalizations otherwise you just reinforced the bad behaviour by giving him what he wanted. If you consistently and totally ignore the noise many dogs will eventually get the message that carrying on will not get them released from the crate.
2. You can use a cue like SSHHH to correct the behaviour. Make sure that you do not speak or interact with the dog in any other way otherwise you are giving the dog your attention and it will serve to mark and reinforce the very behaviour that you are trying to stop.
3. Say nothing and remove yourself to another room. Eventually many dogs figure out that it is pointless to vocalize since there is no one to complain to and their barks and whines are not getting them released from their crate.
Be consistent about how you respond to your dog’s protests. If you give in once, the dog quickly learns that he just has to persevere and he will get his way. Stand your firmly in your resolve to allow this process to take its course. Do not give in to the demands of your dog.
- Be consistent in your expectations and the way in which you handle this issue. If you sometimes expect him to stay in his crate and other times you give in to his demands, then you have taught your dog that if he just applies himself, he can decide for himself what he can and won’t do. You be the leader and you be the only one who makes the rules.
- Let your dog out of the crate when he is actively whining or crying. Wait for a lull in his protest and then release him. If you release him while he is whining, you just marked this behaviour with a reward (being let out of the crate).
- Drag, push, pull, or force your dog in or out of the crate. This will only serve to make him dislike his crate or be afraid of the crate.
- Use crating as a source of punishment. If you punish the dog by locking him in his crate, he will associate the crate with those negative experiences and emotions and you will have lost the use of the crate as training tool.
- Do not crate a dog simply because he requires attention and you are not willing to give it to him. Dogs, especially Huskies and Malamutes, love being a part of the family. To frequently relegate them to a crate just because you will not interact with them is very unfair to the dog and will cause behaviour issues to be created. If you find yourself with consistently not enough time to give your dog the time and attention that he needs, please reconsider your situation and evaluate if you have adequate time for a dog in your life. If it turns out that you do not have the time to adequately meet your dog's needs, then rehoming the dog to a home where people can give him sufficient interaction to keep him happy and feeling loved may be kindest thing you can do for this dog.
* Do NOT attempt to crate dogs that have extreme separation anxiety until their issues have been addressed and resolved. Do NOT continue to crate dogs that are panicking, become so visibly stressed that they drool heavily, or dogs that become aggressive when they are confined. Seek professional help for these behaviours*
How Long To Crate
Once you have gone through the process of crate training and your dog is comfortable using his crate, the issue now becomes for how long should a dog be crated? Ideally dogs should be crated for as few hours as possible. Crating for more than 4 or 5 hours at a time is not recommended.
You can make their crated time more pleasant by:
- Giving them adequate vigorous exercise right before they need to be crated.
- Making sure they have adequate mental stimulation for the time they are crated.
- Making sure that the duration of their crate stay is appropriate with their age and level of maturity.
- Have someone come in to let the dog out during the day for bathroom breaks and to help break up the monotony of being crated for the whole day.
How To Use Crating As Training Tool
Toilet Training Puppies and Mature Untrained Dogs
If you crate train correctly, your dog should not eliminate in his crate. So for those times when the dog cannot be directly supervised, placing him in the crate will prevent toileting accidents from happening in the house. Make sure that you set your dog up for success by making sure that he is toileted directly before is crated to make his stay more comfortable.
In the case of puppies, make sure that you are mindful about how long puppies can be safely crated and also long puppies can hold their bladders. Dogs and puppies can be crated over night to keep night time toileting accidents from happening. At night, a dog’s body processes slow down (including digestion and elimination) and they are able to go for longer periods of time without needing to eliminate. But keep in mind that young puppies will not be able to make through the whole night because of their small bladders.
Crate Training To Keep Puppies and Dogs From Destructive Chewing
When puppies and dogs are unsupervised, inside or outside, they will chew to keep themselves occupied. If no one is there to correct the behaviour or no one is there to notice and stop the behaviour, some of your belongings are sure to become destroyed to dog chewing. It is far more challenging and time consuming to retrain a dog once it has made a habit of destroying items than it is to prevent him from ever starting this habit in the first place. Crate training the dog when it cannot be directly supervised (at least until the dog is established and trustworthy) is wonderful way to keep your house and yard from being destroyed by your dog.
Crate Training To Keep Puppies and Dog Safe While Unattended
Both dogs and puppies can get themselves into a lot of trouble when they are not directly being supervised. Often times it is not just about the destruction that they can cause it is about keeping them safe from chewing and swallowing things that could make them sick or worse, cause them to die. Rather than risking their health, why not crate train the dog and keep it safely confined for those times when they cannot be directly supervised, especially in the case of young puppies and newly acquired adopted dogs who may not have any previous training in these matters.
Puppy Crating Time Guidelines
If you are crating a puppy, please be aware of these guidelines for how long it is advisable to crate young puppies.
If your puppy is 8–10 weeks old, then crated time should not exceed more 30–60 minutes.
If your puppy is 11 – 14 weeks old, then crated time is 1–3 hours.
If your puppy is 15–16 weeks old, then crated time is 3–4 hours.
If your puppy is 17 weeks or older, then crating for 4–5 hours is permissible.
Crate Training: For The Short Term Or For The Long Term?
Crate training can be used as a short term tool until a dog is trustworthy enough to be left in the house while unsupervised but crates can also be used in the long term as an everyday part of life for dogs too. In my household, crate doors are left open for dogs to come and go as they like unless I have to leave, then dogs are crated. I find that with multi-dog households, there is often one ring leader who’s curiosity and bravado gets them into trouble and the other dogs are apt to follow their lead. At my house, Angel would certainly be that dog. My dogs are used to being crated and they show no anxiety, fear, or resentment about being crated. I plan my day accordingly making sure that dogs are exercised before they need to be crated and I NEVER leave dogs crated for more than 4 hours at a time.
Crates, whether they are a short term fix or a long term plan, can be a wonderful tool to use with our dogs.
Using Turmeric To Help Control Chronic Inflammatory Problems In Dogs
By Margit Maxwell
The Normal Acute Inflammatory Response
When bodies have an acute inflammatory response to an injury, infection, or a pathogen, this response is a normal and healthy part of the body’s healing mechanism. This kind of inflammation is not only normal, it is a necessary function of the healing process. It is the inflammation that triggers the body’s response for the blood and the T and B cells of the immune system to go to work on the affected body part to begin the process of repairing healing the trauma or disease. Short term inflammation that is directly a result of trauma or illness is seldom a problem when the body is able to heal the problem. But what happens when the inflammation cycle is chronic and a result of an immune system response that is an over-reaction to some imagined health threat?
The Chronic Inflammatory Condition
The kind of chronic inflammation of the body that comes from an immune system that is not functioning correctly occurs when a dog is suffering with in an autoimmune related disease. In these types of conditions, some component of dog’s immune system fails and can no longer reliably distinguish between a foreign invading pathogen that needs to be attacked and eliminated from the body and its own body cells.
Specifically, in autoimmune disorders the immune system can no longer distinguish proteins that are part of the dog’s own body tissues or organs and see them as an invading outside force. The malfunctioning immune system then launches a “campaign” by producing antibodies that end up attacking and destroying the dog’s own cells as if they were invading outside pathogens.
Health Conditions Created By Immune System Over Reactions
According to Dr. Jean Dodd, for these dogs, the constant state of inflammation in their bodies causes an endless list of debilitating secondary health issues like:
Chronic diarrhea with or without blood and loss of appetite (anorexic eating patterns);
Muscle weakness, lethargy, depression and other mood and behaviour disorders;
Chronically inflamed skin lesions, ulcerations, and issues with hyperkeratosis (an uncontrolled growth of external skin cells) with body odor that comes from infections;
Nasal, oral, or any lesions of the body tissue;
Inflamed joints causing pain from swelling;
Chronic weight gain or uncharacteristic aggressiveness (if related to thyroid disease).
There are also several common medical conditions that have their roots firmly planted in an autoimmune induced health problems:
Pemphigus Disease – produces ulcers that affect the oral cavity and skin areas bordering the mouth, nose, eyes, anus, and genitalia with the lesions progressing to involve greater and greater amounts of skin surface.
Thyroid conditions like Hypothyroidism / Hyperthyroidism, Cushing’s Disease, and Myesthenia Gravis;
Arthritic inflammatory conditions;
And even Cancerous conditions.
The Allopathic Method Of Treating Autoimmune Diseases
Human doctors and Veterinarians alike really don’t have too much understanding about how to shut off the attacks on the body caused by Autoimmune Disorders. There are currently many humans suffering with Autoimmune conditions such as Rheumatoid Arthritis, Lupus, and Fibromyalgia. Sadly, dog Autoimmune related illnesses are now beginning to be seen with some regularity.
When immune systems under react to invading pathogens there are a number of ways to accomplish stimulating and supporting the immune system to bring it back to a balanced state of functioning. But when the immune system response needs to be dialed back, the classic way that Allopathic medicine addresses this is to administer steroids, used both internally and topically. Steroids really do nothing to cure the problem, they only serve to address and lessen the symptoms of the chronic inflammation. Long term steroidal use in dogs has much the same effect as long term use in humans. Using a steroid can causes secondary health problems like weight gain, swelling, aggressiveness behaviour, and a sluggish liver that could eventually lead to liver failure.
So wouldn’t it be wonderful to have a natural product that could address the chronic inflammation attributed to Autoimmune Over Response without the side effects and health problems created by steroid use?
The Anti-Inflammatory Properties of Turmeric
Turmeric, a plant belonging to the ginger family, grows in South Asian tropical climates. The beneficial part of the Turmeric plant are the root of the plant where the active ingredient, Curcumin, is located. Curcumin is a polyphenol that works by addressing cell to cell communication to reduce inflammation. Turmeric root is a spice that is commonly used in Indo Asian cooking. It is either cooked, dried, and made into a powder or used fresh. Turmeric shares its colour with saffron and it too has a very distinct orange/yellow colour that is often used as a dye.
Turmeric can be beneficial to aid with medical issues where there is inflammation by assiting in the cell to cell communication and turning off the release of antibodies from the cells and thereby reducing or even eliminating the effect of the inflammation. Additionally, Turmeric also contains a wide range of antioxidant, antiviral, antibacterial, antifungal, anticarcinogenic, antimutagenic and anti-inflammatory properties. It is also contains other beneficial and healthy nutrients like Vitamin C, niacin, Vitamin E, Vitamin K, potassium, calcium, copper, iron, magnesium, and zinc.
Recipe For Making Golden Paste
One of the best ways of extracting the benefits of Turmeric is to make something called a Golden Paste. In this recipe, the Turmeric is cooked with water and then pepper and coconut oil is added to make the paste. Pepper, or more accurately, the active component PIPERINE found in pepper is needed to help with the turmeric uptake in the body. Adding coconut oil not only helps to form the paste but the coconut oil aids absorption by adding fats to the recipe and coconut oil also has properties to help fight inflammation in the body. Coconut oil also helps to offset the binding (constipating) properties of Turmeric. When the Golden Paste is cooked it is placed into a clean jar and it can be kept refrigerated for up to two weeks.
Golden Paste Recipe
Into a cooking pot add:
1 cup or (250 mls) of water;
Add ½ cup or (125 mls) of organic powdered Turmeric. On medium heat and stirring constantly bring mixture to a slow boil.
Then to the boiling mixture add 1 ½ teaspoons or (7 mls) of ground black pepper;
And add about 5 tablespoons or 70 mls of organic coconut oil to the cooking mixture.
If your mixture appears to be too thick add some extra water 1 tablespoon at a time until the desired consistency is reached. If your mixture should be too watery, add more Turmeric 1 tablespoon at a time until the desired consistency has been reached.
Mix until the oil has fully melted and all the ingredients are thoroughly blended.
Allow the mixture to cool and pour into a clean jar.
Keep refrigerated. The paste will keep for up to two weeks in the fridge.
Dosages For Using Golden Paste
Always start with small amounts when using a new product and work your way up to full doses. If your dog develops a belly ache from the Turmeric, reduce the amount of Turmeric given daily. Also make sure to give lots of water as Turmeric has natural binding properties.
The average recommend dosages for using Golden Paste is approximately ¼ teaspoon per 10 pounds of dog weight. So that means for a 40 pound dog you are using 1 teaspoon daily, for an 80 pound dog you are using 2 teaspoons daily. You can divide these doses in half and give in two equal doses for the day.
In the case of using Turmeric for Autoimmune inflammations, Dr. Karen Becker recommends the following amounts of Golden Paste to be administered daily:
For small dogs to medium sized dogs: ½ teaspoon or (250 mgs) administered twice daily;
For large dogs: 1 teaspoon or (500 mgs) administered twice daily;
For giant dog breeds: 1 teaspoon or (500 mgs) administered three times daily.
The dosages for using powered Turmeric and fresh Turmeric are the same as for using the Golden Paste.
Using Quercetin For Dogs With Allergic Inflammation
By Margit Maxwell
SIDE NOTE: DO NOT GIVE GRAPES OR RASINS TO DOGS!!
There are many kinds of inflammation that can occur in dogs. One kind of inflammation is the allergic response to something in the environment or to something that has been ingested.
Do you have a dog who gets an itchy, hot, inflamed allergic response to things in his environment? Chances are really good that the Vet recommended that you give Benadryl to your dog. Do you worry about having to give Benadryl to your dog often? The active ingredient in Benadryl used to block histamine is diphenhydramine and frequent use of this drug can cause issues with liver function in dogs.
So what if there were a natural alternative to using Benadryl for your dog's allergic inflammation?
The flavonoid, Quercetin, is a plant based natural compound found in the peel of common fruits and vegetables like citrus fruits, apples, grapes, dark cherries, dark berries, onions, and parsley. It also occurs naturally in some teas and red wine. This flavonoid has powerful anti-oxident, anti-histamine, and anti-inflammatory properties that help to quiet the inflammation caused by an allergic response without the harsh chemicals of over the counter allergy medications.
What Is An Allergic Reaction?
Simply, an allergy is an inflammatory response to an immune system reaction. When the body reacts to an allergen, the immune system mounts an attack on the invading force by producing antibodies. These antibodies cause cells to release chemicals, like histamine, into the bloodstream. The histamine then causes an inflammation in the skin, eyes, or in the mucosa of the respiratory tract. This is why it is not uncommon to see dogs who are having allergic reactions to chew, lick, or scratch at itchy body parts. Quercetin can address the inflammatory response by turning off the histamine production and can control the inflammation process by actually inhibiting the production of certain inflammatory molecules.
Using The Supplement Quercetin
Quercetin supplements are often combined with the enzyme, Bromelain, to help increase the bioavailability of the Quercetin. Bromelain is an enzyme that also helps to inhibit the production of histamine. Together, these two products help to suppress certain types of pain and inflammation associated with the allergic responses of the body.
Most Quercetin comes in doses of 1000 mgs which is meant for the average 125 pound human being.
The daily dosage for dogs is as follows:
1000 mgs, for dogs 125 pounds,
800 mgs for dogs 100 pounds,
600 mgs for dogs 75 pounds,
400 mgs for dogs 50 pounds,
250 mgs for dogs 35 pounds,
125 mgs for dogs 15 pounds.
Whenever possible split daily doses into two equal doses for a more even supply of Quercetin into the bloodstream. Do not over dose your dog as very high doses have Quercetin may damage kidneys.
Do not give Quercetin to dogs who are known to have kidney disease or who are pregnant.
It is not advisable to give Quercetin on a long term basis. Usually the rule of thumb is for every 6 weeks on the supplement allow for 3 weeks off the supplement.
Also, if you know that your dog will require surgery stop giving Quercetin 14 days in advance of the surgery.
Don't Just Guess, Get Professional Medical Guidance
As with all supplements, to keep your dog safe make sure that you ask a qualified medical person about how to safely use this supplement for your dog.
Margit Maxwell- A Dog Trainer (CPDT) and Canine Behaviour Specialist for The Divine Dog Project. She lives in Calgary, Alberta, Canada with her Herd of two Siberian Huskies (Kaya and Angel) and an Alaskan Malamute (Skylar). She also has credentials in Psychology (Human and dog), Animal Sciences, Natural Medicine, Energy Medicine, and many alternative Healing Modalities.